Tourist
Info

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LA
RUTA DEL VINO– THE WINE ROUTE
A least one day in La Rioja should be spent exploring the countryside.
One of the best ways to get a feel for the region is to drive or bike
along the wine route or La Ruta del Vino. (See
Map). The wine route is actually three different excursions, one
through each of the wine sections of La Rioja, and can be covered in
a day. But a leisurely drive over the rolling plains is recommended,
with a stop at one of the many villages for an unrushed lunch.
The farmland is dotted by storybook towns like Badarán and Viguera.
Near San Millán de la Colloga are the two monastic complexes
of Suso and Yuso, considered the birthplace of the Spanish language.
At Santo Domingo de la Cazada, an important way-station for pilgrims
on the road to Santiago de Compostela, the Procession of the Hundred
Maids is a tribute to the young women the Moors demanded as payment
from the Christians before the La Reconquista.
The villages of San Vicente de al Sonsierra, La Bastida, and Briñas
are important vineyard centers. Without overdoing it, at each stop taste
the local wine. If you will just ask, the locals will proudly tout the
unique merits of their regional wines.
Many reminders of a rich Spanish and Roman history are found throughout
La Rioja. A well-preserved Roman bridge crosses the Ebro River, and
nearly every town has a medieval church or monastery that doubled as
fortification. For those who like their history truly ancient, a series
of tracks made by Cretaceous dinosaurs can be seen along the flanks
of the Picos de Urbion mountains.
The soft, undulating hills of La Rioja make for perfect bicycle country.
Cylcists are often spotted pedaling through the villages and for the
most part are respected in Spain, though the roads are narrow. While
Spanish roads are generally well annotated, occasionally a crossroad
will lack a crucial sign. The best advice if lost is to take the most
logical route but not be afraid to ask, as the Spanish are very friendly
and helpful when giving directions. Though a smidgen of the native language
helps, hand signs and a map can work miracles. There are few roads in
La Rioja Alta,so eventually many people conveniently end up back where
they began.
In Spain, no festival would be complete without a bullfight, or corrida.
Haro’s small but attractive ring hosts mostly amateur aspiring
matadors, or novilleros. The wine festival corrida
is reserved for the last day before the Wine Battle. The bullfight participants
gather at the Plaza de Paz, led by the mounted Alguacil or
bailiff wearing a Philip II costume. Close behind are the mule-skinners
and señoritas decked out in traditional dress in a parade
through Haro to the bullring.
The week-long wine festival is a union of three ancient holidays--San
Juan, San Pedro, and San Felices—that were rolled into one centuries
ago. The local landlords, bourgeoisie, and Church officials decided
there were too many holidays, seriously damaging the local work-ethic.
“We like to work, but we love to live well,” said local
resident Ramon Perez. “The good life is more important to a Spaniard
than a lot of money.”
With their many saint’s days and all-night celebrations, the Spaniards
have a well deserved reputation as serious partyers. And of course there
is the wine. Spain has more land planted in grapes than any other country.
Wine is consumed all day and at lunch and dinner to quench thirst, as
water might be used in other countries. La Rioja has become synonymous
with Spanish wine and Haro, La Rioja Alta’s wine capital, celebrates
its principal product with a week-long summer wine festival, culminating
on June 29 with the Wine Battle.
HARO’s
WINE MUSEUM
For wine
enthusiasts and tourists alike, a visit to the Wine Museum is well worth
the five-block walk from the plaza to the commercial center of Haro.
A compound houses both the Wine Museum and the Oncological Center, displaying
regional oncological artifacts and delving into the story not only of
winemaking, but of La Rioja itself. Sr. Manuel Ruiz Hernandez director
of the Oncological Center took time to explain the different grapes
and soils of La Rioja.
“Our tempranillo grape is a noble grape that ages extremely
well,” Manuel explains “It is Spain’s indigenous grape.
The others like garancha, pinot noir, and cabernet are all imports.
Wine grapes were first brought to Spain 4,000 years ago by the Phoenicians,
and later by the Greeks and Romans. Remember, the great vineyards of
California began with wine grape stock from Spain.” The signature
grape earned its name because it is the first to ripen--early, or temprano.
POMPLONA – THE RUNNING OF
THE BULLS
Celebrated one week
before Fiesta in Pamplona, The Wine Battle is a convenient stop for
anyone heading to Pamplona for the Running of the Bulls. July 7-17.
THE
FACTS
Many American and European airlines fly to Madrid, including Iberia
and Spainair.
There are also flights into Bilbao, two hours’ drive from Haro.
However, a good alternative is to fly to Madrid and rent a car at the
airport for the four hour drive to Haro. The N-1 highway from Madrid
will take you through another major Spanish wine district, Duero, before
it ends the cathedral city of Burgos. There, the N-1 feeds into N–232,
which leads to La Rioja and Haro. The Wine Battle takes place in the
summer, which in Spain is usually dry and hot during the day; however,
the surrounding foot hills can cool down at night to sweater weather.
Bar-hop like the Spanish. Stop at each bar along the street between
the main square and the hilltop church, have one glass of wine, and
then leisurely move on to the next bar.
HOTELS
Los Agustinos
A former convent turned prison, this 65- room boutique hotel has all
the atmosphere of a medieval manor. With spacious hallways, a patio,
and a grand room furnished with antiques, it can transport any guest
back a half a millennium.
It is centrally located four blocks from the central plaza and within
walking distance of both the winery Bodega district and the Wine Museum.
Doubles from $85 US
Calle San Agustin, 2
34-941-31-13-08
Hotel Ciudad de Haro
Carretera. Naciola 232 Km 41
34-941-31-12-13
Doubles from $150 US
Hotel Luz
Calle Camillo Jose Cela, 1
34-941-30-47-48
Doubles from $80 US
RESTAURANTS
Vega
There is a tapas bar in front room with the restaurant in back serving
local specialties
Dniner for two $45 to $54 US
941-31-08-72
Casa Terete
Specialty wood- fired lamb
Lucrecia Arana, 17
Diner for two $46 to $50 US
941-31-00-23
TAPAS
Meson Atamouri
Fabulous selection of tapas, each $9 to $12 US
Plaza Juan Garcia Gato, 1
941-303-220
SITES
The Wine Museum and Oncological Center
Bertón de los Herreros, 4
Open Monday - Saturday 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., 4 p.m. to 8 p.m., Sunday 10
a.m. to 2 p.m.
34-941-31-05-47
THE WINERIES -- BODEGAS
Bodegas Muga
Barrio La Estacion
941-31498
Open Monday Friday 11 a.m. English tours, 2:30 p.m. Spanish tours
Except Friday, 11:30 a.m. Spanish tours
Admission: $4 US
Bodegas Bilbainas
Barrio La Estacion
610-486-999
Open Monday - Saturday. Call 9:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m. for reservations
Bodegas Rioja Santiago
Barrio La Estacion
941-310-200
Open Saturday at 11:00 a.m.
Admission $4.00 US
Other bodegas in Haro are available for tours if called
in advance.
SHOPPING
The best bargains are, of course, the wines. Haro is dotted with numerous
wine shops offering a wide variety of Spanish wines, such as:
Selecion Vinos de Rioja
La Paz Square
34-941-30-30-17
La Catedral de los Vinos
Santo Tomas St, 4
34–941-31-21-43
Vinicola Jarrera
Calle Castilla, 3 and Calle Santo Tomas, 17
34-941-31-14-25
TOURIST INFORMATION
A very helpful regional tourist office:.
Beronia
Monseñor Florentino Rodríguez
s/n. 26200 Haro, La Rioja, Spain
941-30-33-66
riolta@arrakis.es
www.beronia.org